suzook12 Posted May 27, 2021 Author Share Posted May 27, 2021 5 minutes ago, JonC said: When it’s all done will you get an engineers report or something to prove it? When I go for new axles and couplers, will get it tested and plated, or I may sell it and build a new one and get that tested instead.... Need paperwork for suspension and brakes etc to get CE plating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 This is what I was talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 6 hours ago, JonC said: This is what I was talking about Got a delta head on mine so can't do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 1 hour ago, suzook12 said: Got a delta head on mine so can't do that Yeah I get that but just posted for general reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPSguru Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 You can space out Delta Couplings with commercially available spacers .......... This is my Ifor, and the spacer is a factory fit, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 Mine needs about 4" GPS!! Droppr plate deffo the way to go...... I have around 24" at the tow ball centre unladen GPSguru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPSguru Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 15 minutes ago, suzook12 said: Mine needs about 4" GPS!! Droppr plate deffo the way to go...... I have around 24" at the tow ball centre unladen Yes, that is the way I would go ............ a Dixon Bate adjustable rated at 3.5T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 Just an update on this...... As it stands, I have made the deopside hinges on the lathe and made box section frames up. I hope to order the steel tomorrow for the side and tail infills so can get that welded then can get it painted. Have some new antiluce fasteners to weld on the tail gate, some front markers to fit and wire. I have also modified the original head board frame and currently is being used to hang outboards on for testing..... Will try and remember to get pictures of all the work so far Andy135, captin slows old outlaw and Geoff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 Right..... This will give you the jist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDP Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 (edited) Ive been watching this and finding it quite surprising how different things are done between two countries which basically are much the same, especially in terms of motoring and trailering regulations (law). The earlier post I put up showing the lighting connecter was with a 7 pin (which come in round or flat pin) for all the exact same lights on any vehicle, stop lights, driving, parking, breaks, reverse and indicators. The other extra pins were for heavier loads to control the breaking system, all of which is simply plug and play into the vehicles wiring harness plugs straight from manufacturer, so not quite sure why there's a need to join wires unless the vehicle is very old. I would of thought big manufactures would use the same wiring harnesses straight from factory for the vehicles they send out to all countries. As for tow bars on vehicles, here you buy them rated to the tow vehicle, with most 4x4's being around 3 to 4.5 ton and lighter vehicles 2 ton etc. The tow bars nearly all have a removable tow hitches so you don't have to leave a tow bar sticking out the back of a vehicle bashing peoples shins when parked in a shopping carpark. Due to the carrying heights of both the tow bar design and vehicle height the tow bar can be easily adjusted in height to assure a level trailer. Things seem way over complicated in the UK to me, I would have concerns about any form of packing on a 3 ton trailer and doing lengthy drives. By the way the small white lights in the lighting harness are needed for the trailer wheel arches only on trailers over a certain width, which your trailer would certainly need over here (all plug and play). Edited October 25, 2021 by JDP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 19 minutes ago, JDP said: Ive been watching this and finding it quite surprising how different things are done between two countries which basically are much the same, especially in terms of motoring and trailering regulations (law). The earlier post I put up showing the lighting connecter was with a 7 pin (which come in round or flat pin) for all the exact same lights on any vehicle, stop lights, driving, parking, breaks, reverse and indicators. The other extra pins were for heavier loads to control the breaking system, all of which is simply plug and play into the vehicles wiring harness plugs straight from manufacturer, so not quite sure why there's a need to join wires unless the vehicle is very old. I would of thought big manufactures would use the same wiring harnesses straight from factory for the vehicles they send out to all countries. As for tow bars on vehicles, here you buy them rated to the tow vehicle, with most 4x4's being around 3 to 4.5 ton and lighter vehicles 2 ton etc. The tow bars nearly all have a removable tow hitches so you don't have to leave a tow bar sticking out the back of a vehicle bashing peoples shins when parked in a shopping carpark. Due to the carrying heights of both the tow bar design and vehicle height the tow bar can be easily adjusted in height to assure a level trailer. Things seem way over complicated in the UK to me, I would have concerns about any form of packing on a 3 ton trailer and doing lengthy drives. By the way the small white lights in the lighting harness are needed for the trailer wheel arches only on trailers over a certain width, which your trailer would certainly need over here (all plug and play). Not sure what you find difficult Jon, coiled up excess wire is not good, bespoke trailer wiring is neat and easy to add everything legally required. Not joining any wires on the truck unless at some point they get corroded and need cutting back. AS for packing, I guess you are referring to spacers? Spacers can be a better option than the adjustable bar you have shown. Spacers are generally required to get the trailer to within an acceptable height, we are talking about adjustable height plates for the bar itself, different to what you show but essentially does the same job as our ball hitches are 2 bolt flange mounted as a rule JDP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDP Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 3 hours ago, suzook12 said: Not sure what you find difficult Jon, coiled up excess wire is not good, bespoke trailer wiring is neat and easy to add everything legally required. Not joining any wires on the truck unless at some point they get corroded and need cutting back. AS for packing, I guess you are referring to spacers? Spacers can be a better option than the adjustable bar you have shown. Spacers are generally required to get the trailer to within an acceptable height, we are talking about adjustable height plates for the bar itself, different to what you show but essentially does the same job as our ball hitches are 2 bolt flange mounted as a rule I don't like having any connection along the trailer itself (on my boat trailers) as water will always find its way in and often with road trailers too. I also live less than 50m from the saltwater so everything has to be galvanised or marine grade aluminium. Do they still use salt on the roads in the UK during winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 4 hours ago, JDP said: I don't like having any connection along the trailer itself (on my boat trailers) as water will always find its way in and often with road trailers too. I also live less than 50m from the saltwater so everything has to be galvanised or marine grade aluminium. Do they still use salt on the roads in the UK during winter. Yet you have plug in lights? Referring to the side markers, so you already have a connection there. I use waterproof junction boxes, and they are, if fitted correctly. and as this trailer isn't a boat trailer it's location is just fine. My boat trailer has the junction box much further forward where it doesn't get wet when launching..... Even sealed light units let water in to some extent, it's called made in China..... The tow plugs, we have what we have, 7S/7N or 13 pin euro plug...... The type you are using are spot on for people that can't, but pricey for those that can. Most people here would opt for the pre wired trailer board. I just wanted better light units...... I think mine looks better than a lighting board and less likely to draw attention when running over weight lol captin slows old outlaw 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDP Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 4 hours ago, suzook12 said: Yet you have plug in lights? Referring to the side markers, so you already have a connection there. I use waterproof junction boxes, and they are, if fitted correctly. and as this trailer isn't a boat trailer it's location is just fine. My boat trailer has the junction box much further forward where it doesn't get wet when launching..... Even sealed light units let water in to some extent, it's called made in China..... The tow plugs, we have what we have, 7S/7N or 13 pin euro plug...... The type you are using are spot on for people that can't, but pricey for those that can. Most people here would opt for the pre wired trailer board. I just wanted better light units...... I think mine looks better than a lighting board and less likely to draw attention when running over weight lol No the side lights just like the rear ones are moulded into the plastic and the join plug is forward of any waterline from launching the trailer. As for trailer boards, I had one about 25yrs ago and rarely seen these days. We are talking about different trailers though, Im talking about boat trailers that are used for launching boats often daily in many cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captin slows old outlaw Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 very interesting suzook looks very professional job. suzook12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 @JDP @suzook12I can’t believe you to/two/too are arguing over the best trailer plug connector. JDP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 2 hours ago, JonC said: @JDP @suzook12I can’t believe you to/two/too are arguing over the best trailer plug connector. We're not..... I can only use what we have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 5 hours ago, JDP said: No the side lights just like the rear ones are moulded into the plastic and the join plug is forward of any waterline from launching the trailer. As for trailer boards, I had one about 25yrs ago and rarely seen these days. We are talking about different trailers though, Im talking about boat trailers that are used for launching boats often daily in many cases. That's how I do my boat trailers Jon. There was a thread on the other site from when I rebuilt my boat trailer and made my own roller beds. I put this one up because principles are the same, asked if "the boss" wanted to continue it so it spread in to the other stuff...... JDP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDP Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 6 hours ago, JonC said: @JDP @suzook12I can’t believe you to/two/too are arguing over the best trailer plug connector. Didn't know it was an argument, simply a discussion on differences in trailer set ups between countries. Having not used any kind of spacers, my initial thought was how the trailer would handle on the corrugation roads out here which aren't all bitumen sealed and turn to corrugations after a few weeks of grading. Also just like what I hear from family in the UK your roads are becoming pretty bad in terms of potholes etc. In regards to lights on any trailer that enters the saltwater, I prefer not having any joins at all bellow the waterline as Ive yet to have any truly seal and Ive had a lot of so called waterproof lights and joining boxes in the past, I only trailer boats not moor them. suzook12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 16 minutes ago, JDP said: Didn't know it was an argument, simply a discussion on differences in trailer set ups between countries. Having not used any kind of spacers, my initial thought was how the trailer would handle on the corrugation roads out here which aren't all bitumen sealed and turn to corrugations after a few weeks of grading. Also just like what I hear from family in the UK your roads are becoming pretty bad in terms of potholes etc. In regards to lights on any trailer that enters the saltwater, I prefer not having any joins at all bellow the waterline as Ive yet to have any truly seal and Ive had a lot of so called waterproof lights and joining boxes in the past, I only trailer boats not moor them. Spacers are ok if kept to a minimum, unless designed in such a way to compensate. The height difference between my truck and trailer would really need a double flanged spacer to enable short bolts to be used top and bottom rather than long through bolts. Alternatively, the dropper bracket, bearing in mind, the twisting force on the tow bar increases dramatically with increasing "drops". I would guess there comes a point where a spacer and a dropper would be the best option. The use of either should improve the trailers handling just because it would be sitting nearer the ideal attitude and improve hitch weight. Agreed RE joints, they should be as far forward as possible. Where I have needed to extend wires in the past, I have soldered, heatshrink, sealer then heat shrink again, although the resin filled crimps seem very good as well JDP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDP Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 I like to have the front of my trailer higher than the back too, this helps in getting the boat on and off plus helps with water run off after launching and left in at the carpark all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share Posted November 14, 2021 (edited) Just a quick update, the sides are all made and welded, cut and fitted the headbpoard panels yesterday. Will get some paint on it in next few days and some pics maybe later today. Jobs left to do..... Brakes Fit and wire front markers Replace suspension units for a known quantity, prob knotts 1500Kg axles Replace Wheels and tyres Get trailer CE plated So still quite a bit to do, but once the headboard frame is fitted/welded today, the trailer is useable. Won't be carrying much weight wise until the brakes and axles are done. Edited November 14, 2021 by suzook12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share Posted November 14, 2021 Headboard all finished with the lads first go at welding Started painting the framork Coming along Geoff and Andy135 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 Just for an update, this got painted and pressed into service pretty rapidly. We have had lathes, mills and various other machinery in this, and will be getting loaded for a car boot next weekend hopefully too.... I am extremely happy with the lights (still not fitted the front ones yet tho), they have been faultless. One running repair made is that the anti loose fasters popped out on one dropside and it came off, so had to cut a section out and redo it. I have since drilled the hinge pins and fitted R clips all round. The next 2 jobs coming up, which I will cover on here when I do it, is remaking of the brake controls and getting the brakes working properly, and I want to fit some lashing rings inside the trailer that fold down flush when not in use. The intention to replace the suspension and head unit has been shelved for now as prices went through the roof shortly after starting this project and I don't really fancy spending another grand on it..... Verdict so far..... Very happy, I have a good solid trailer well under the price it would cost to buy. Must get round to finishing it..... It also makes an awesome mobile workbench!!! 👍 Geoff, Andy135 and Saintly Fish 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Good effort Steve, thanks for the update 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.