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Injector seals?


JonC
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How hard are these to change, assuming I can get the injectors out? It’s on a td5 vw unit. 
Im getting good performance so I don’t think they need refurbishment, at about £100 a piece. 

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4 hours ago, JonC said:

How hard are these to change, assuming I can get the injectors out? It’s on a td5 vw unit. 
Im getting good performance so I don’t think they need refurbishment, at about £100 a piece. 

Ideally, you need an injector puller, which is a bit like a modified slide hammer.

However, if the injectors look Ok and the engine is running fine, then I would leave well alone. Over the years I have probably driven millions of miles on tractor engines and never had to replace an injector seal, but I have heard they can be suspect on Bob Marley's and later LR engines, but I don't know of anybody that has actually had to replace them due to a running issue.

The usual issue with injectors is the rubber spill pipes (leak off pipes) for the fuel return. These can not only leak, but also draw air, which causes bad starting, rough idle, and in some cases a 'no start' situation as it allows the main fuel line to drop the fuel back to the tank. On most common rail diesels, they are 3.2mm overbraided rubber pipe on plastic barb fittings that deteriorates over a few years, and they leak / draw air at the barbs.

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3 hours ago, GPSguru said:

Ideally, you need an injector puller, which is a bit like a modified slide hammer.

However, if the injectors look Ok and the engine is running fine, then I would leave well alone. Over the years I have probably driven millions of miles on tractor engines and never had to replace an injector seal, but I have heard they can be suspect on Bob Marley's and later LR engines, but I don't know of anybody that has actually had to replace them due to a running issue.

The usual issue with injectors is the rubber spill pipes (leak off pipes) for the fuel return. These can not only leak, but also draw air, which causes bad starting, rough idle, and in some cases a 'no start' situation as it allows the main fuel line to drop the fuel back to the tank. On most common rail diesels, they are 3.2mm overbraided rubber pipe on plastic barb fittings that deteriorates over a few years, and they leak / draw air at the barbs.

That’s a good call, I’ll try the pipe first, can’t beat a cheap fix.Thanks 

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1 minute ago, GPSguru said:

Yep, the pipe is about £5 per metre.

Yes thanks I’ve looked on line, I will treat myself later. The problem with an air leak is that you have to keep waiting for it to reoccur, I will change the pipes and prime the system, run it then have to leave it. Frustrating. 

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1 hour ago, JonC said:

Yes thanks I’ve looked on line, I will treat myself later. The problem with an air leak is that you have to keep waiting for it to reoccur, I will change the pipes and prime the system, run it then have to leave it. Frustrating. 

Yes, I have just been through that with the Jeep. Every so often it would take a big gulp of air and then not do it for a few days and my concern is it would happen on the slip with an incoming tide, but I was pretty sure I would be able to bleed and restart quite quickly.

eventually I traced the issue to a short manifold spill pipe, so I have now replaced all the spill pipes and the issue has not reoccurred. On the Jeep the injector spill, manifold spill, and HP pump return all meet at a ‘return manifold’ box up under the inlet manifold and is a complete barsteward to access, although I found just enough room by removing the fuel and manifold pressure sensors and then working with a mirror.

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10 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

Yes, I have just been through that with the Jeep. Every so often it would take a big gulp of air and then not do it for a few days and my concern is it would happen on the slip with sn incoming tide, but I was pretty sure I would be able to bleed and restart quite quickly.

eventually I traced the issue to a short manifold spill pipe, so I have now replaced all the spill pipes and the issue has not reoccurred. On the Jeep the injector spill, manifold spill, and HP pump return all meet at a ‘return manifold’ box up under the inlet manifold and is a complete barsteward to access, although I found just enough room by removing the fuel and manifold pressure sensors and the working with a mirror.

If I designed engines everything would be on the top, with clear labels not worn out unreadable part numbers 

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2 minutes ago, JonC said:

If I designed engines everything would be on the top, with clear labels not worn out unreadable part numbers 

Thinking back, I have had spill pipe issues with most of the tractor engines that I have owned over the last 25 years, and they all give usually intermittent symptoms. 

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Update. 
I bought some braided hose, I went nuts and bought 2m , for a whopping £9. 
 

On my way home I remembered it’s my second wedding anniversary so I chickened out of boat fixing/breaking tonight.

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5 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

What this year? Or EVER? 
I don’t remember you getting married 2 years ago! 

I did message you about being the best man? 

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1 hour ago, JonC said:

Update. 
I bought some braided hose, I went nuts and bought 2m , for a whopping £9. 
 

 

 

When removing the old hose from the barb, it is best to carefully cut through the over-braid with a stanley knife for the length of the barb, they come off easier without risk of breaking the plastic barb on the injector.

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Well they came off easy enough once I removed the air filter housing and ecu box. 
I started cutting the braid but there was no need which suggests they have gone brittle. There was no fuel in any of the lines that seemed odd. 
Also put a non return in the return to tank line. 
Now wait til tomorrow to see if any improvement. 

 

612A7A28-5678-4AB2-92B9-8E055275BADE.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

They certainly look past their best. Good bit of preventative maintenance.

To be fair the flaking white is just the factory paint flaking off. But they were fairly rigid not flexible like the new stuff. 
i

I only used about 90cm, gutted I wasted a fiver. 

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4 hours ago, JonC said:

Well they came off easy enough once I removed the air filter housing and ecu box. 
I started cutting the braid but there was no need which suggests they have gone brittle. There was no fuel in any of the lines that seemed odd. 
Also put a non return in the return to tank line. 
Now wait til tomorrow to see if any improvement. 

 

612A7A28-5678-4AB2-92B9-8E055275BADE.jpeg

Hmm, they dont look great.

If they were drawing air, the usual symptoms are these,

1. Rough idle, especially when started from cold.

2. Much longer engine cranking time before it fires.

3. often when first started it will immediately stall and then be OK when restarted.

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Just got back from the boat, My fitter has run diagnostics and the management light was for the stop solenoid. That would explain the poor starting.I’m also pleased to know that there’s no abnormalities with the injection system showing so I haven’t got to piss about with them. 

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9 minutes ago, jonnyswamp said:

Result 

Hopefully. I’ve changed it before, it’s about £40-50 so cheaper than anything else I might of changed 

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