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Yamaha F60A PTT (2001)


thejollysinker
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have had to strip my PTT due to slight motor body corrosion for a re-paint and discovered a bit of a mess inside.... failed spade connectors and broken terminals.

I took the circuit breaker apart to find it well... broken. Been quoted £113.54 + VAT – Japanese stock, 2 week lead time and nearly fell off the chair when I saw that. A tiny plastic box with a bimetallic? component inside and some copper tabs (see pic)

Anyone have advice on A: fixing this or B: buying a replacement at a reasonable cost. Appreciate any help.

thanks, Gary

Untitled-1.jpg

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Your only hope is finding an equivalent used in a non boating application. I saved @Andy135a fortune by finding a replacement motor for his trim tabs that was actually being used in a drill or something. 

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As Jon says, if you can find a part number on the casing or can look it up you may be able to find out if it's been used in anything else and purchase accordingly. Perhaps Yamaha used them across a number of o/b models? Or maybe other o/b manufacturers used the same part in their ptt mechanisms too? 

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6 hours ago, thejollysinker said:

have had to strip my PTT due to slight motor body corrosion for a re-paint and discovered a bit of a mess inside.... failed spade connectors and broken terminals.

I took the circuit breaker apart to find it well... broken. Been quoted £113.54 + VAT – Japanese stock, 2 week lead time and nearly fell off the chair when I saw that. A tiny plastic box with a bimetallic? component inside and some copper tabs (see pic)

Anyone have advice on A: fixing this or B: buying a replacement at a reasonable cost. Appreciate any help.

thanks, Gary

Untitled-1.jpg

 

Looks like the motor is part number 69W-43880-01-00, used from 1995 -2003 on the 40 - 100 models

You can get a Chinese copy on ebay for about £85, but most others seem to be around £150 - £200 which is similar to your quote.

 

The Circuit Breaker is part number 69W-82181-00-00 and looks to be about 105USD ......... I can find plenty for sale in the USA but most are quoting it as only genuine factory part availability, so I guess your quote of Jap stock is on the money .............

Edited by GPSguru
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9 hours ago, suzook12 said:

Do you know what ampage the circuit breaker is?

 

no is the simple answer, it isn't even in the wiring diagram.... the only writing anywhere on the product is on the metallic element inside the box which says simply B)038

anyway, I've come to the conclusion after hooking up the avo and finding that there is only voltage (+/-13 or so) when either of the switches are operated that the circuit breaker is only there to protect the motor in case the switch is pressed for too long or jammed. If that is the case then I'm on the side of the fence that says 'don't worry about it, just bypass it and worry about it when or if something goes drastically wrong'....

As Ian said, I could always pick up a cheapo chinese copy motor for 85smackers worst case scenario 🤷‍♂️

 

Edited by thejollysinker
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I suspect you're probably right. Easy to avoid holding the tilt switches too long, and how likely is it really that the motor would get jammed?

I guess if nothing else you could investigate soldering the spades & terminals as a running repair.

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1 hour ago, thejollysinker said:

no is the simple answer, it isn't even in the wiring diagram.... the only writing anywhere on the product is on the metallic element inside the box which says simply B)038

anyway, I've come to the conclusion after hooking up the avo and finding that there is only voltage (+/-13 or so) when either of the switches are operated that the circuit breaker is only there to protect the motor in case the switch is pressed for too long or jammed. If that is the case then I'm on the side of the fence that says 'don't worry about it, just bypass it and worry about it when or if something goes drastically wrong'....

As Ian said, I could always pick up a cheapo chinese copy motor for 85smackers worst case scenario 🤷‍♂️

 

Hmmm Reply gone missing again!!

To me £85 is far from cheap, If you knew what amperage it was you could add a generic one on flying leads maybe? Look like standard 6mm spades so no more than 30A.

Personally, I would be tempted to bridge it, then add fuse(s) between supply and motor.

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4 hours ago, thejollysinker said:

no is the simple answer, it isn't even in the wiring diagram.... the only writing anywhere on the product is on the metallic element inside the box which says simply B)038

Well, if you consider that most trim tilt systems have a 20A fuse and most up/down relays are rated to 35A, then I guess the circuit breaker is probably 30 - 40 A.

Bi-Mettalic breakers act like a slow fuse with a timed reset.

2 hours ago, suzook12 said:

If you knew what amperage it was you could add a generic one on flying leads maybe?

See above

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22 hours ago, Andy135 said:

I suspect you're probably right. Easy to avoid holding the tilt switches too long, and how likely is it really that the motor would get jammed?

I guess if nothing else you could investigate soldering the spades & terminals as a running repair.

I concur. I'm not even convinced it was working anyway as it literally was in bits when I opened the housing.

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21 hours ago, suzook12 said:

Hmmm Reply gone missing again!!

To me £85 is far from cheap, If you knew what amperage it was you could add a generic one on flying leads maybe? Look like standard 6mm spades so no more than 30A.

Personally, I would be tempted to bridge it, then add fuse(s) between supply and motor.

I think Ian was referring to a Chinese aftermarket motor, complete.... ('You can get a Chinese copy on ebay for about £85')

 

Edited by thejollysinker
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16 hours ago, suzook12 said:

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/E-T-A/1610-92-10A?qs=FESYatJ8odLTM7lYniMokg%3D%3D

Does same thing, fraction of the cost and yes I realise that's the 10A version, they do them 5-30A and under £20......

thank you for the link, I'll investigate getting one of these at the correct rating and doing what you suggested with flying leads to fix 🙂

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4 hours ago, thejollysinker said:

I think Ian was referring to a Chinese aftermarket motor, complete.... ('You can get a Chinese copy on ebay for about £85')

 

That sounds more reasonable to be fair.....

Yamaha and chinese is not always a bad thing, I know with a lot of bikes, they are made in Jianshe factory, and also sold much cheaper under their own Jianshe name. I have a feeling there is a similar deal with Parsun for smaller engines, wouldn't surprise me if a few bigger ones out there....... It was always the copies of the copies that were the real issue, like turbochargers off of ebay.......

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17 hours ago, suzook12 said:

That sounds more reasonable to be fair.....

Yamaha and chinese is not always a bad thing, I know with a lot of bikes, they are made in Jianshe factory, and also sold much cheaper under their own Jianshe name. I have a feeling there is a similar deal with Parsun for smaller engines, wouldn't surprise me if a few bigger ones out there....... It was always the copies of the copies that were the real issue, like turbochargers off of ebay.......

Don't talk to me about cheap turbos.... Daughter bought a really nice focus tdci a few years ago that had a not so nice turbo on it. Unbeknown to me of course, she let the oil level drop and it blew up and it also threw a conrod through the casing... guess who had to fit a replacement engine? it received a nice refurbed garrett afterwards 👌

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12 minutes ago, thejollysinker said:

Don't talk to me about cheap turbos.... Daughter bought a really nice focus tdci a few years ago that had a not so nice turbo on it. Unbeknown to me of course, she let the oil level drop and it blew up and it also threw a conrod through the casing... guess who had to fit a replacement engine? it received a nice refurbed garrett afterwards 👌

Ouch! 😭😭

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  • 5 weeks later...
8 minutes ago, thejollysinker said:

so in the end I just went for the cheapest and simplest option which was a flying lead into the void where the circuit breaker should go and straight back out to the brush wire. It works just fine..... thanks gents 👍

Good to hear, and thanks for the update. Useful info should anyone have the same issue in future.

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the saga continues.... all was fine as mentioned previously. Boat was duly launched weekend before last and we went out for the day before putting the boat back on the mooring. I took my nephews out the next day for another trip and no issues.... then it gets interesting this sunday gone...

I was up early for a long day out but as soon as I tried the switch to lower the engine nothing happened except for a clicking sound up top. I tried quite a few times even after checking connections under the hood, up, down, up down etc and no joy. I then reached down and felt the motor cover which was quite hot so I unplugged the power supply to it and let it cool. After 10 mins I plugged it back in and lo and behold, it worked. So, I left it for a few minutes and the motor cover got hot again. Carried out the previous sequence and it was still working so I set the trim to the approx optimum position, unplugged it again and set off for my day out. When I got back it was a just a matter of plugging it back in again and raising it then unplugging it.

So, there is another underlying issue there now and I wonder if it has anything to do with what looks like a limit switch inside the bracket? (probably)

More investigations are now required so this thread has unfortunately been resurrected. I'll update it when I've had a chance to look at it properly 👍

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6 minutes ago, thejollysinker said:

the saga continues.... all was fine as mentioned previously. Boat was duly launched weekend before last and we went out for the day before putting the boat back on the mooring. I took my nephews out the next day for another trip and no issues.... then it gets interesting this sunday gone...

I was up early for a long day out but as soon as I tried the switch to lower the engine nothing happened except for a clicking sound up top. I tried quite a few times even after checking connections under the hood, up, down, up down etc and no joy. I then reached down and felt the motor cover which was quite hot so I unplugged the power supply to it and let it cool. After 10 mins I plugged it back in and lo and behold, it worked. So, I left it for a few minutes and the motor cover got hot again. Carried out the previous sequence and it was still working so I set the trim to the approx optimum position, unplugged it again and set off for my day out. When I got back it was a just a matter of plugging it back in again and raising it then unplugging it.

So, there is another underlying issue there now and I wonder if it has anything to do with what looks like a limit switch inside the bracket? (probably)

More investigations are now required so this thread has unfortunately been resurrected. I'll update it when I've had a chance to look at it properly 👍

That's a pain. Worth checking what voltage the motor is getting. Either too many or too few volts can cause it to overheat I believe.

You've probably already checked the earth to the motor but in case not, ensure it's well connected/no corrosion etc.

As for the limit switch, is your suspicion that it's not working, hence the motor runs on and gets hot? If so, a quick check with a multimeter either side of the switch should tell you more.

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1 hour ago, Andy135 said:

That's a pain. Worth checking what voltage the motor is getting. Either too many or too few volts can cause it to overheat I believe.

You've probably already checked the earth to the motor but in case not, ensure it's well connected/no corrosion etc.

As for the limit switch, is your suspicion that it's not working, hence the motor runs on and gets hot? If so, a quick check with a multimeter either side of the switch should tell you more.

thanks for the suggestions Andy. I do suspect the switch isn't doing it's job and needs checking so will be doing that.

Electrics baffle me tbh but I normally get there with dogged perserverance 😅

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1 hour ago, thejollysinker said:

the saga continues.... all was fine as mentioned previously. Boat was duly launched weekend before last and we went out for the day before putting the boat back on the mooring. I took my nephews out the next day for another trip and no issues.... then it gets interesting this sunday gone...

I was up early for a long day out but as soon as I tried the switch to lower the engine nothing happened except for a clicking sound up top. I tried quite a few times even after checking connections under the hood, up, down, up down etc and no joy. I then reached down and felt the motor cover which was quite hot so I unplugged the power supply to it and let it cool. After 10 mins I plugged it back in and lo and behold, it worked. So, I left it for a few minutes and the motor cover got hot again. Carried out the previous sequence and it was still working so I set the trim to the approx optimum position, unplugged it again and set off for my day out. When I got back it was a just a matter of plugging it back in again and raising it then unplugging it.

So, there is another underlying issue there now and I wonder if it has anything to do with what looks like a limit switch inside the bracket? (probably)

More investigations are now required so this thread has unfortunately been resurrected. I'll update it when I've had a chance to look at it properly 👍

I saw that you were out on Sunday, but the sea looked a bit lumpy and the visibility was not that good for me going to the wrecks, so I gave it a miss.

The motor getting hot can only be caused by it drawing too much current, that is why Yam fitted the safety cut out. As the motor is still working, drawing too much current can only be caused by,

a) corrosion in the armature bearings, meaning the motor is under continuous load.

b) the motor still having power applied AFTER it has reached its limit stop.

 

 

 

 

Edited by GPSguru
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