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Rod rebuild and ring repair


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I have two GX2 rods, both kayak that need new rings because the original were absolutely not fit for purpose and I have two GX2 boat rods and both have one damaged ring. 

Way back in the dim and distant past I did this on my beach and boat rods but I used epoxy glue for the tip rings and varnish for the whipping. I see that has changed and thermo setting glue is used on tips and epoxy instead of varnish. 

Before I bodge it, any top tips? I don't want a stunning finish just something that will last and doesn't require too much faff, my wife has a glue gun and I will get the right rings and some decent thread. 

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53 minutes ago, Malc said:

I have two GX2 rods, both kayak that need new rings because the original were absolutely not fit for purpose and I have two GX2 boat rods and both have one damaged ring. 

Way back in the dim and distant past I did this on my beach and boat rods but I used epoxy glue for the tip rings and varnish for the whipping. I see that has changed and thermo setting glue is used on tips and epoxy instead of varnish. 

Before I bodge it, any top tips? I don't want a stunning finish just something that will last and doesn't require too much faff, my wife has a glue gun and I will get the right rings and some decent thread. 

Yep, hot melt glue for the tip ring, then whip on the other rings and varnish. The are several options for rod varnish, but to get a spanking finish you need a rod turning machine that stops the varnish ‘dropping’.

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For what it's worth I used epoxy and fly tying thread on a beach rod that shattered a ring. The epoxy and the thread whipping provided the chemical/mechanical bond to hold the ring in place. Not sure whether hot melt glue would be strong enough used alone, and not sure if it would provide a good enough finish as a top coat?

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26 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

For what it's worth I used epoxy and fly tying thread on a beach rod that shattered a ring. The epoxy and the thread whipping provided the chemical/mechanical bond to hold the ring in place. Not sure whether hot melt glue would be strong enough used alone, and not sure if it would provide a good enough finish as a top coat?

All factory rods are done with hot melt glue. I sell loads of fuji and seymo glue. 

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49 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

For the cost of a GX2 rod (£50?), just buy a new one and save yourself the effort. 
Unless you have oodles of spare time and nothing to fill it with! 

How very un-environmental of you.

#savetheplanet

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16 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

How very un-environmental of you.

#savetheplanet

That's weak. They will be made anyway, just cuz @Malcdoesnt buy them doesn't mean they will go out of business. 
It just doesn't make economical sense to strip and re ring a rod that cheap. 

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29 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

That's weak. They will be made anyway, just cuz @Malcdoesnt buy them doesn't mean they will go out of business. 
It just doesn't make economical sense to strip and re ring a rod that cheap. 

Just the tip wring? 

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30 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

That's weak. They will be made anyway, just cuz @Malcdoesnt buy them doesn't mean they will go out of business. 
It just doesn't make economical sense to strip and re ring a rod that cheap. 

I think you should become a crusty and save water. Or help save sea species... #keeponblanking 😱😜

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I’ve used a beach rod where the guides were held on by insulation tape, just tape them on with lots of turns and it’ll hold them in place no problem, cheap and cheerful 😁

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Tip ring for one rod, intermediate for another and full re ring for two others. I have plenty of time at weekends and evenings to do it.

Good to hear about varnish on whipping the intermediate and hot melt glue for the tips. I shouldn't have to do it as I always wash/wipe the kayak rods down but the rings are useless. 

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2 hours ago, Odyssey said:

Varnish works but you need more coats, 2 part resin works well too, it’s pretty cheap, try Blakdog Tackle he’s reasonably priced.

 

 

Yeah, used him for lots of stuff and he was very helpful identifying the age of my ABU 6000C as I replaced the frame yonks ago when I needed new drag washers. I can thoroughly recommend carbontex when you need to replace your washers. 

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11 minutes ago, Malc said:

I can thoroughly recommend carbontex when you need to replace your washers. 

No other drag washer comes near to these. I always replace the Brand new shimano charter specials with carbontex and cals drag grease.

However, I am moving more and more to fin-nor and they use carbon fibre washers as standard fitment.

Edited by GPSguru
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Another vote for Blakdog and carbontex washers. I replaced the ancient original (leather?) washers on a couple of Mitchell 602's with carbontex versions - a huge improvement.

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Strangely I just (Christmas) bought a fin nor offshore for that reason, amongst others, after a period of bedding in the ABU washers I thought why faff about replacing when I can get something that can stop a horse?

Edited by Malc
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1 minute ago, Malc said:

Strangely I just bought a fin nor offshore for that reason, amongst others, after a period of bedding in the ABU washers I thought why faff about replacing when I can get something that can stop a horse?

Yes, I like the marquesa’s and currently have a MA20 2 speed, MA16, and a MA12.

The only annoying feature is the over engineered anti reverse pawl that is there to prevent slip on the one way sprag bearing, however, the pawl is easy to remove (5 min job) to give a completely silent reel. I also remove the centrifugal brake sleeves whilst I am in there. Most of my fishing is wrecking and it is good to have a free running reel that I can control with thumb pressure in 200 -300 ft of water.

I tested the sprag bearing at full drag and couldn't get any slip at all.

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2 hours ago, GPSguru said:

Yes, I like the marquesa’s...

Looked at them but more than I need for the fishing I do at present, I wanted something that I could uptide with or float fish for tope and has a decent drag and although it is a lump the offshore FS it will sit in a rod holder most of the time. 

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