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my project boat ( or mony pit )


captin slows old outlaw

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17 minutes ago, captin slows old outlaw said:

the top half of the boat is pot riveted to the botom .

 

the rubing strake cuvers it up. i will put some pic s up

Ah now it makes sense . Pop river guns come in the drivers tool kit on a Land Rover, along with a welding machine 

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14 hours ago, captin slows old outlaw said:

the top half of the boat is pot riveted to the botom .

 

the rubing strake cuvers it up. i will put some pic s up

If you cant get any wide flange pop rivets, then use pop rivet washers (cheap) to increase the surface area of the rivet. Fit the washers on both the top and bottom of the rivet.

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49 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

If you cant get any wide flange pop rivets, then use pop rivet washers (cheap) to increase the surface area of the rivet. Fit the washers on both the top and bottom of the rivet.

have don thanks

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On 5/21/2021 at 11:11 PM, captin slows old outlaw said:

the rubing strake cuvers it up. i will put some pic s up

Pete, fitting the rubbing strake is an arsehole of a job. The strake is usually stretched on, so if you just fix one end at the transom and then fit it around the boat it will be about a foot or more too short.

I have fitted a few and the only way to do it is to soak the rubber strake in very hot water, then fix both ends at the transom (usually using the end cap tube fixings, but some are just screwed) and then stretch the strake over the bow, then just go around and make sure it is fitted Ok over the gunnel flange. Some of them have taken two of us to stretch it over the bow !

Edited by GPSguru
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18 hours ago, GPSguru said:

Pete, fitting the rubbing strake is an arsehole of a job. The strake is usually stretched on, so if you just fix one end at the transom and then fit it around the boat it will be about a foot or more too short.

I have fitted a few and the only way to do it is to soak the rubber strake in very hot water, then fix both ends at the transom (usually using the end cap tube fixings, but some are just screwed) and then stretch the strake over the bow, then just go around and make sure it is fitted Ok over the gunnel flange. Some of them have taken two of us to stretch it over the bow !

thank you im putting the old one back on as it looks ok

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2 hours ago, captin slows old outlaw said:

thank you im putting the old one back on as it looks ok

You will definitely need to stretch over the bow. Best to warm it up with very hot water or a hair dryer.

Edited by GPSguru
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Just on the subject of rubbing strakes Ian, I could not get my rubberish strake around the almost square transom corners, I cut and mitred the corners and they look rubbish. I think that in the past I have seen some SS corner cover trims, but cannot seem to find them anywhere. Any thoughts please. Sorry Pete for crashing your thread, but it may also be of interest to you.Geoff.

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13 hours ago, Geoff said:

Just on the subject of rubbing strakes Ian, I could not get my rubberish strake around the almost square transom corners, I cut and mitred the corners and they look rubbish. I think that in the past I have seen some SS corner cover trims, but cannot seem to find them anywhere. Any thoughts please. Sorry Pete for crashing your thread, but it may also be of interest to you.Geoff.

no thank you, all in formation is yousfull ,  even better when you take it  in minde

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well i have done some woork on the boat over the larst few weeks, but know i have put the feul tank, wires ect back onthe bedy.

bonet whent on today air filter box and pipe woork, yook the plugs out and terend it over. no poblems so far.

the back of the van looks empty know with a lote of bits back on the boat and van. the heat is not good for me and i have not been to well as of late. nuthing bad just worn out and felling crzz.hope fully get here to fire up on tuseday when i can get the petrol. then its m o t.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i tried to drill a paice ove s steal tube to day got my exsencive drill bits out colblt or something, yoused the punch, yep got a nice indent. tried the smallest drill bit fof a pilot hole, slow     farst    no joy there vso tried the next size up ges what not a a bit of difference, any idears on what to do next, all sergestions wellcome

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Pete, as you are drilling a curved surface you will need a right small drill to get started, say 2.5/3mm

Stay away from welds, as this has already hardened from the heat of the weld process

Use good quality cobalt drills., Dormer are pretty good, and keep em sharp.

You can maybe get away with cheaper drills as you go up the sizes, any chips etc tho, resharpen or replace

Also use to find triggering the drill on and off helps

Hope that helps mate

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14 hours ago, suzook12 said:

Pete, as you are drilling a curved surface you will need a right small drill to get started, say 2.5/3mm

Stay away from welds, as this has already hardened from the heat of the weld process

Use good quality cobalt drills., Dormer are pretty good, and keep em sharp.

You can maybe get away with cheaper drills as you go up the sizes, any chips etc tho, resharpen or replace

Also use to find triggering the drill on and off helps

Hope that helps mate

this very helpfull thank you.i youse colbolt  normally with a bit of wd 40, and i go through a lote of small bits as you segested.

as i am replaceing bolts on the bedford. then thered cutting metrick (as it is easyer to get met bolts ect. in some placeses i can put a nut behind so i do not have to rethred

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15 hours ago, Maverick said:

Drilling Stainless

One thing to remember is the drill bit must be cutting or you will heat the steel and it will work harden then you have a much harder job to drill it.

thank you good advice as allways

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38 minutes ago, captin slows old outlaw said:

this very helpfull thank you.i youse colbolt  normally with a bit of wd 40, and i go through a lote of small bits as you segested.

as i am replaceing bolts on the bedford. then thered cutting metrick (as it is easyer to get met bolts ect. in some placeses i can put a nut behind so i do not have to rethred

Yep, much easier to get these days.....

I used to get around 4 holes in 3mm thick stainless to 1 cobalt 3.5 bit, as long as didn't lean on them too hard, in which case they snapped...... Got a rollicking for doing £60 worth of bits in a morning...... 🤣

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On 6/16/2021 at 3:44 PM, suzook12 said:

Yep, much easier to get these days.....

I used to get around 4 holes in 3mm thick stainless to 1 cobalt 3.5 bit, as long as didn't lean on them too hard, in which case they snapped...... Got a rollicking for doing £60 worth of bits in a morning...... 🤣

your boss thought it was a bit  much then he  he. sorry could not helpmyself

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