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More on sharking rigs (or any bigger game for that matter)


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My rigs are a little different from what Ive sen on here and what I used in the UK.

Firstly wire under 100lb isn't crimped at all and simply tied with clinching knots that bind toghter the harder they are pulled (great for the beach sharks).

My heavier rigs do use crimps and also 3mm dyneema loops (1100kg breaking strain). My circles are straight, not offset which offsets are illegal in game fishing tournaments due to the higher risks of deep hooking. Barbs are flattened to make hook removal quicker and easier.  Depending on the species 300lb mono and a 200lb short wire is about as big as I need to go. With hammerheads you often have to go straight mono to get them to take a bait. My hooks are rigged so that they turn in which greatly increases my hook up rate that I can honestly say I don't remember a fail. This way of turning the hooks in is regularly used on deep drop rigs where the time and effort of getting baits 500+ down to the bottom and back up again warrants maximum hookup rates.

Most sharks can be released in around 10-15mins by using the boat to my advantage, which is more of an advantage in smaller boats in my opinion. The first run will often rip 400m + line from the reels as I prepare the boat for a clear deck to work the shark from either side. The side I tend to work a shark depends on which side of the mouth its hooked. 

In shallow water of 80m or less I quickly bring the boat alongside a shark keeping a good side pressure on it as I try to judge which side its hooked by how it pulls from the side. Once I think I know which side its hooked I tie on my leader rope and hook remover to that side of the boat. 

From there on I get ahead of the shark driving the boat with the steering wheel behind my back so I can watch the line and make sure Im always dead ahead of it (facing backwards driving forwards). This tends to bring them up pretty green and quick, not some tired worn out lump. Once the leader is up my leading rope is connected to the Dyneeema loop and the line removed from the rod (rod finished and out the way).

Now the shark is on the thick easy to handle rope (tied at one end to the boat) I bring it alongside as we are still in gear moving ahead. As soon as I can get onto the second dyneema loop which is connected to the short wire trace I can then remove the hook. Removing the hook can be done in to ways, first being pull the hook out in the direction it went in. The second is to get my bar under the tip of the circle where it comes out of the corner of the jaw and pull the hook right through and cut the wire. 

This whole procedure can be done very quickly with just two onboard.


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12 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

Good info there Jon. Thanks. I like the way you tie your hooks to turn in - neat tip. 👍

It really helps the corner jaw hooking, just remember to let them run and don't strike.

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