Electrical Tools

[daio web]

9 hours ago, suzook12 said:

Theres two schools of thought on this, there are automotive lads that will solder every time, I came from that background so tend to use non insulate then crimp and solder, then slide the insulation over. The aircraft and train boys say no, don't solder, and again, I have worked in the rail industry for quite a few years.

The big difference is quality of crimps and pliers. Not just any old crimps off of the market (or ebay these days) but proper quality items from the likes of RS, who supply rail and aircraft industries... Decent pliers fetch around £250 used on the open market, or ermmm get borrowed from the railways.....

Quality makes the difference mate. I won't use insulated crimps unless they are quality ones, much preferring non insulated. Excess solder can make the wire brittle and cause it to snap under vibration. To be fair, I've never had that happen on any of the bikes I've wired over the years. What made me switch was the terminals for most multiblocks use latched non insulated terminals.

Whatever method you use, make sure you do a pull test on every crimp, you don't want and important wire coming adrift halfway across the Bristol Channel

thanks mate i have used good quality crimps  with proper crimpers  but i am going to buy some different ones and solder them i am an electrician by trade so that should help me getting it done properly many thanks butt daio

[captin slows old outlaw]

this topic has solved a few questions on wiring for me

[JonC]

1 hour ago, captin slows old outlaw said:

this topic has solved a few questions on wiring for me

It’s made me hang my head in shame. 

[Saintly Fish]

11 minutes ago, JonC said:

It’s made me hang my head in shame. 

Twist, twist, bubblegum and cello tape?

[GPSguru]

On 2/6/2022 at 7:20 PM, suzook12 said:

Theres two schools of thought on this, there are automotive lads that will solder every time, I came from that background so tend to use non insulate then crimp and solder, then slide the insulation over. The aircraft and train boys say no, don't solder, and again, I have worked in the rail industry for quite a few years.

The big difference is quality of crimps and pliers. Not just any old crimps off of the market (or ebay these days) but proper quality items from the likes of RS, who supply rail and aircraft industries... Decent pliers fetch around £250 used on the open market, or ermmm get borrowed from the railways.....

Quality makes the difference mate. I won't use insulated crimps unless they are quality ones, much preferring non insulated. Excess solder can make the wire brittle and cause it to snap under vibration. To be fair, I've never had that happen on any of the bikes I've wired over the years. What made me switch was the terminals for most multiblocks use latched non insulated terminals.

Whatever method you use, make sure you do a pull test on every crimp, you don't want and important wire coming adrift halfway across the Bristol Channel

 

I usually solder and then use glued heat shrink, the theory being that the glued heat shrink gives adequate rigidity to solve any issues of vibration fatigue at the soldered joint, however, the joint needs to be properly soldered which means not allowing the solder to run back to the insulation by capillary action due to too much heat.

TBH, I don't believe there is a lot to choose between either crimping or soldered, as long as the job is done properly with the correct tools.

Yes, my crimpers were a little over £500 and that was in 1993 !