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Hi Wayne,

Lewmar has a good reputation - reliable but expensive. I have a Quick Prince on my 26ft boat - does the job but a bit slow on recovery.

When I used to have a Predator 165, similar to your Warrior, I found that the Alderney method worked for me. Certainly much cheaper than installing a windlass. One question for you - is the Warrior's foredeck structurally strong enough to install & recover a windlass safely?

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1 hour ago, waynej said:

hi andy thats what i was wondering i dont think it is 

Might be worth giving Warrior themselves  a quick call. They would know if it's possible, if it's been done before and if so, how.

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1 hour ago, Andy135 said:

Might be worth giving Warrior themselves  a quick call. They would know if it's possible, if it's been done before and if so, how.

Looking at pictures of a warrior 165  they look like they have a sanding post near the bow roller? That would have to be a fairly strong position to take the stress of the anchor or mooring lines. 

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31 minutes ago, JonC said:

Looking at pictures of a warrior 165  they look like they have a sanding post near the bow roller? That would have to be a fairly strong position to take the stress of the anchor or mooring lines. 

Agreed. Question is whether it will be strong enough once the hawse hole has been cut out, and whether there is enough drop for the rode.

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You may well need to reinforce your foredeck with marine ply.

Before you look at it you need to check the drop into your locker, if there is not enough you’ll find your rope doesn’t coil properly and just jams your windlass… 

For a manufacturer, Lewmar are excellent but you’re looking at couple of hundred quid in parts with fitment on top… 

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2 hours ago, Odyssey said:

You may well need to reinforce your foredeck with marine ply.

Before you look at it you need to check the drop into your locker, if there is not enough you’ll find your rope doesn’t coil properly and just jams your windlass… 

For a manufacturer, Lewmar are excellent but you’re looking at couple of hundred quid in parts with fitment on top… 

I paid about £700 for a full kit for my pro fish 700, that includes everything other than electric cables. I think I would consider a double battery set up if I was fitting a windlass, so that can add to the expense if the boat doesn’t have one already. This with the weight of the windlass could add up to 30kg so it’s a consideration. 

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A few lads have contacted me from the UK in regards to the drum winches that most boats use over here rather than windlass. Not sure if something like these might suit the boat but they are so simple and can normally be in most anchor hates, even my 14ft centre console has a lonestar one fitted. You get away with much finer braided anchor lines which cuts down on bulk.

 

 

Edited by JDP
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10 hours ago, JonC said:

Do these have manual functions in case of problems? 

No idea, never had a problem. I’ve had them on my last 4 boats as well as all of the commercial boats I use have them. On the commercial boats I would estimate dropping anchor around 10-20 times per day while working with divers. I would imagine most would have a manual override free fall and if it stopped working on the retrieval you would have to go back to the old methods of pulling by hand or using a float. The only time I’ve ever had issues has been with the windlass styles, even while doing my coxswain’s the 48ft training vessel windlass failed, which was a bigger issue due to the size of anchor. I find the fact anchoring is simply the push of a button I tend to plan lots of locations rather than staying in one spot. Especially useful when I’m searching for lobsters, where I might anchor close to several small structures in the search for them, very similar to live bait gathering also. 

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