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Selecting the right rod for Slow Pitch Jigging


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I've had a lot of guys showing some confusion around "which Rod" they may need for SPJ so to start with I now have a compiled comparison chart that I hope will help.

Manufacturers give their own power ratings to the different models but there is little consistency between the makers so this is where the confusion can start.

The chart I have produced shows a direct jig weight comparison (Jigabite Rating) as well as the manufacturers rating.

These differ quite a bit in some instances but there are obvious times where both these ratings overlap and this is shown also.

UbWlTug.jpg

A rough rule of thumb is to assume between 2.5 and 3.0grams of jig weight per metre depth but you can often add a gram per metre for when there is tide.

For example: in 40metres (40 x 2.5g = 100g with little tide) (40 x 3.5g = 140g with some tide).

There are many other factors to take into consideration such as conditions, wind speed, type of jig used etc. so I would always suggest taking a couple of jigs a little heavier than usual to extend your fishing time if conditions worsen.

Please note that these are my personal recommendations and they are only a guide so please contact me at Jigabite if you are still unsure.

 

I hope this makes some sense . Terry

 

SPJ Rod comparisons.xlsx

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Good insights Terry. Thanks for sharing. 👍

When I have a bit more time later tonight I'll see if I can add your Excel sheet as an image so that folks without access to Excel can still read the comparison table.

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1 hour ago, Terry Smith said:

I've had a lot of guys showing some confusion around "which Rod" they may need for SPJ so to start with I now have a compiled comparison chart that I hope will help.

Manufacturers give their own power ratings to the different models but there is little consistency between the makers so this is where the confusion can start.

The chart I have produced shows a direct jig weight comparison (Jigabite Rating) as well as the manufacturers rating.

These differ quite a bit in some instances but there are obvious times where both these ratings overlap and this is shown also.

A rough rule of thumb is to assume between 2.5 and 3.0grams of jig weight per metre depth but you can often add a gram per metre for when there is tide.

For example: in 40metres (40 x 2.5g = 100g with little tide) (40 x 3.5g = 140g with some tide).

There are many other factors to take into consideration such as conditions, wind speed, type of jig used etc. so I would always suggest taking a couple of jigs a little heavier than usual to extend your fishing time if conditions worsen.

Please note that these are my personal recommendations and they are only a guide so please contact me at Jigabite if you are still unsure.

 

I hope this makes some sense . Terry

 

SPJ Rod comparisons.xlsx 13.33 kB · 4 downloads

I have been slow jigging since 2015 and my findings are about the same. Being of the older generation I work in feet and fathoms, and my rule of thumb for jig weight is about 1g per foot of depth, based on using lines of 1.2 or 1.5 PE. 

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7 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

I have been slow jigging since 2015 and my findings are about the same. Being of the older generation I work in feet and fathoms, and my rule of thumb for jig weight is about 1g per foot of depth, based on using lines of 1.2 or 1.5 PE. 

Nothing wrong with feet and fathoms (or the older generation) Quite right that the Line PE is another factor to take into consideration.

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@Terry Smith, I have included some other observations that might help folk

 

In the UK we are going to be using lines of PE 1.0, 1.2, and 1.5

The leader will usually be FC and no longer than about 3m, however, I often go down to 1.5m, 20lb FC seems to work fine for most UK fish

Tides / wind make a big difference to the rule of thumb of 1g per foot of water.

At slack water  and either side of slack water you can go with as little as 0.5g per foot

A drift rate of between 0.5knt and 1.5knt requires definitely at least 1g per foot

A drift of over 1.5knts, then forget SPJ and get the shads out to play ..............

 

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Very valid comments though a leader of just 4 to 5 feet will create less drag on the jig especially when fishing in tide.

Remember the jig should be allowed to freefall with as little interference as possible.

This does increase the chance of braid hitting structure but if you are constantly in touch with the jig this shouldn't be a problem.

I never use more than 4 feet (when SPJ) even in tropical destinations.

 

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My thoughts on this are that some people love nothing more than pretty graphs and spending time with calculators!!!!!

Im using jigs and soft plastics with weights that don't come anywhere near those recommendations. If I was to use those a few years ago yes I would of caught fish but given the fact the fish are so used to people using jigs these days they have wised up to not being caught by them. 

In depths of 80 to 300m Im dropping jigs of 60-80g and plastics to a max of 1/4oz in depths of 60-80m. Of course this can't be done at anchor but its certainly ok on the drift. I do have to constantly work my engine in and out of gear to keep the boat over jigs in deep water but the lighter lures are certainly allowing me to out fish boats still dropping 500g to 2kg jigs wizzing past fish at warp speed. 

Panoptics has been a game changer for me in seeing how fish behave live on my screen in relation to different jig weights. Everything is constantly changing, with the Daiwa baitjunkie plastics being the latest greatest the fish are taking. I can run several plastics from different manufacturers and see in live view just how fish are reacting to the lures. Its so dam fun and addictive that Im having more fun watching fish's reactions to lures than actually catching them. A few grams of difference on the same jig head can see fish swim to both lures but in most cases just take the lightest.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I constructed this chart as an aid for people to differentiate between each manufacturers lure ratings as there is no other way to know this without physically feeling the rods.

The necessity was  based on demand as so many people were understandably confused.

Certainly not because I like investing my valuable time in pretty graphs or using calculators.

If you dont like it then dont look at it, simple, move on.

 

 

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