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Yamaha 60hp 2 stroke wiring


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Got a new control box for my yamaha outboard as the old one was knackered. There wasn't a 10 pin plug on the engine so I've cut the plug off the new controls and fitted a sealed 10pin plug to the controls and socket to the engine side. The buzzer was disconnected and I can't find the ignition wire on the engine side. The ignition is just permanently on when ever the battery is connected and with the buzzer in the new box connected it buzzes all the time. 

The old box had the 12v feed connected to the ignition yellow wire on the controls and where the perment + 12v should connect to is not connected. 

Anyone know what colour the ignition wire will be engine side or where it should go roughly. There is a dark red wire that is connected to a permanent +12v with an inline fuse on it, when that is disconnected nothing works, including the tilt/trim on either the throttle or the engine itself, is that our best candidate? Should the ignition switched live be fused?

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Yes it’s the same but the engine is wired so the ignition is live as soon as the battery is connected rather than when the key is turned. Looks like they disconnected the buzzer they sounds when the ignition is on. Hoping to redo it properly 

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11 hours ago, LostPiker said:

Anyone know what colour the ignition wire will be engine side 

Judging by the above diagram, yellow should be the ignition/switched live colour.

11 hours ago, LostPiker said:

There is a dark red wire that is connected to a permanent +12v with an inline fuse on it, when that is disconnected nothing works, including the tilt/trim on either the throttle or the engine itself. 

That would be the permanent live from the battery. Leave it as is.

11 hours ago, LostPiker said:

fitted a sealed 10pin plug to the controls and socket to the engine side.

Again, according to the diagram the engine-side connector should be male and the boat-side connector female.

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I would join them all up , solder and heat shrink then hook them straight up to a 12v battery or two. 
 

Maybe try it on someone else’s boat first though? 

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At at this point I would like to distance myself and the rest of the SLT from any of the advice I am giving or have ever given for legal reasons. 

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2 minutes ago, JonC said:

At at this point I would like to distance myself and the rest of the SLT from any of the advice I am giving or have ever given for legal reasons. 

Probably for the best 🤣

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29 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

That would be the permanent live from the battery. Leave it as is.

@LostPiker, for clarification, did you say that they had connected the permanent 12v live feed from the engine to the switched live wire on the boat side? If so, then you'll need to move the permanent live back to allow you to connect the yellow switched live from the engine to the yellow switched live on the boat side of the connector. Otherwise the switched live at the ignition switch will actually be permanent, not switched.

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1 hour ago, Andy135 said:

@LostPiker, for clarification, did you say that they had connected the permanent 12v live feed from the engine to the switched live wire on the boat side? If so, then you'll need to move the permanent live back to allow you to connect the yellow switched live from the engine to the yellow switched live on the boat side of the connector. Otherwise the switched live at the ignition switch will actually be permanent, not switched.

Yes, that's the plan but there isn't a yellow wire engine side so I don't know what wire needs to be removed from permanent live and make switched live

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6 minutes ago, LostPiker said:

Anyone know if tilt and trim should work with ignition off?

Can't speak for Yamahas but both of the Suzuki engines I've owned trim and tilt with ignition off. This is one of the purposes of the red permanent live.

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10 minutes ago, LostPiker said:

Yes, that's the plan but there isn't a yellow wire engine side so I don't know what wire needs to be removed from permanent live and make switched live

If no yellow, what wires do you have? Is the yellow missing e.g. one less wire than you should have? Or do you have the correct number of wires from the engine, but none of them are yellow?

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There are a few wires that aren't connected. The old box had 3 wires not connected. One was the buzzer, one was trim down and the third is switched live. 

I suppose I need to know what the switched live is connected to, I would assume the CDI unit? If I disconnect the dark red wire that is connected to a permanent live feed then everything stops working so I could switch that bit don't want to draw too much through the switch and damage it

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The switched live would provide power to anything that you only want power to while the engine is running/key in position 1. Suspect that engine electric fuel pumps may use a switched live but don't know if yours is a mechanical pump or electric.

It would be helpful if you could take a photo or list the colours you have each side of the connector as it's not really clear what you're working with.

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22 hours ago, LostPiker said:

Got a new control box for my yamaha outboard as the old one was knackered. There wasn't a 10 pin plug on the engine so I've cut the plug off the new controls and fitted a sealed 10pin plug to the controls and socket to the engine side. The buzzer was disconnected and I can't find the ignition wire on the engine side. The ignition is just permanently on when ever the battery is connected and with the buzzer in the new box connected it buzzes all the time. 

The old box had the 12v feed connected to the ignition yellow wire on the controls and where the perment + 12v should connect to is not connected. 

Anyone know what colour the ignition wire will be engine side or where it should go roughly. There is a dark red wire that is connected to a permanent +12v with an inline fuse on it, when that is disconnected nothing works, including the tilt/trim on either the throttle or the engine itself, is that our best candidate? Should the ignition switched live be fused?

Right, Just getting me head around what you are saying here...... The outboard should run with no battery to my knowledge and there should be a kill wire which sends the ignition pulses to earth, usually white

Engine                        Controls

Red-----------------Red------- 12V +
Black---------------Black-------Ground
Violet (purple)------Yellow------12V Ign
Black/Yellow--------White-------Kill Circuit
Yellow/Red----------Brown------Start Circuit
Yellow/Black--------Blue---------Choke Circuit
Green--------Tach wire

 

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The colours on the engine side match the controls except the tilt/trim and the missing ignition live feed. The engine is 1998 I think. Do you have any idea what part the yellow switched live should go into?

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16 minutes ago, suzook12 said:

How many cylinders is yours?

 

It's a 3 cylinder. All I need to find out is what does the yellow connect to? Is it the CDI module? I expect the wire I need to connect to the switched live is connected to a permanent live as the ignition switch was dodgy or similar issue so they bodged it. 

Thanks for looking

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Can't find any online, I would imagine it's part of the warning buzzer system for overheat alarm etc, poss electric choke.

As long as the white isn't earthed, it should start (check for spark) , disconnect it engine end.

I only have yam twins, will have a look on them soon as up the workshop, but believe the 3 cylinder motors are rebadged merc/mariners

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