Saintly Fish Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 I’m going to be fitting my new radar system soon. For the power supply, do I need to run a separate designated live for it, or can I piggy back off the power supply that feeds my two MFD’s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 9 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said: I’m going to be fitting my new radar system soon. For the power supply, do I need to run a separate designated live for it, or can I piggy back off the power supply that feeds my two MFD’s? They do draw a bit of power, if you have a spare space on your board it’s worth giving it a separate supply, possibly an illuminated switch to remind you it’s on. Your nice new solid state one won’t make the noise anything like an old version, as well as the power consumption there’s the safety aspect to it.They can cause brain damage. Oh hold on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted April 21, 2021 Author Share Posted April 21, 2021 11 minutes ago, JonC said: They can cause brain damage. Is that your excuse then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Can only answer that as seperate fused live feed, no-one else knows what the wiring is on your boat so to suggest a piggy back could well be overloading existing wiring. Even a solid state system can tip you over the edge in regards drawing too much current for the wire run length and and cross sectional area....... Piggy backing, if one of your mfd's develops a fault, you will lose your mfd's and radar. If all supplied and fused seperately, you will lose that mfd and nothing else....... Andy135 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted April 21, 2021 Author Share Posted April 21, 2021 5 minutes ago, suzook12 said: Can only answer that as seperate fused live feed, no-one else knows what the wiring is on your boat so to suggest a piggy back could well be overloading existing wiring. Even a solid state system can tip you over the edge in regards drawing too much current for the wire run length and and cross sectional area....... Piggy backing, if one of your mfd's develops a fault, you will lose your mfd's and radar. If all supplied and fused seperately, you will lose that mfd and nothing else....... Ok , thanks Steve. Separate it is then! suzook12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Separate it out... easier debug when it doesn’t work (now or in future) 🙂 Saintly Fish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPSguru Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 7 hours ago, Saintly Fish said: I’m going to be fitting my new radar system soon. For the power supply, do I need to run a separate designated live for it, or can I piggy back off the power supply that feeds my two MFD’s? Yes, it needs a dedicated fuse supply from the fuse box. piggy backing is extremely bad practise, especially from a single point of failure viewpoint. Saintly Fish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 Another cable question. the location I want to site my radome is on the rear of my cabin roof. There is a cable void but is only about 20mm deep if that. The connector to the radome on the data cable has a 35mm screw fit. So this won’t feed through the route I have available. can the data cable be cut then re joined together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 32 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said: Another cable question. the location I want to site my radome is on the rear of my cabin roof. There is a cable void but is only about 20mm deep if that. The connector to the radome on the data cable has a 35mm screw fit. So this won’t feed through the route I have available. can the data cable be cut then re joined together? I suspect it probably can (anything's possible right?), but it could be a potential point of failure or corrosion in future. Definitely no other way of routing the cable? JonC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 14 minutes ago, Andy135 said: I suspect it probably can (anything's possible right?), but it could be a potential point of failure or corrosion in future. Definitely no other way of routing the cable? No not that I can see. I have an electronics engineer coming this morning to take a look around the install. He says Garmin does a “field kit” for cutting and re joining. Apparently it’s a common problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 2 hours ago, Andy135 said: I suspect it probably can (anything's possible right?), but it could be a potential point of failure or corrosion in future. Definitely no other way of routing the cable? If the cable is joined inside the shed then it won’t be overly exposed. When I joined my cable on an old unit I Soldered the wires and used a lego block strip to hold them in place. I dare say what garmin will supply will cost you a couple of hundred and do the same thing. Andy135 and suzook12 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 As has been said Neil, cut the indoor end and feed it backwards, keeps that end weathertight. Solder and heatshrink and shouldn't go far wrong, or research the plug type and fit new plug.... RS Components may be able to help as long as they're not dedicated plugs/sockets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 20 minutes ago, suzook12 said: As has been said Neil, cut the indoor end and feed it backwards, keeps that end weathertight. Solder and heatshrink and shouldn't go far wrong, or research the plug type and fit new plug.... RS Components may be able to help as long as they're not dedicated plugs/sockets Thanks Steve. Due to time constraints and being busy at work, I’ve now employed a bid to do the complete install for me!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 27 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said: Thanks Steve. Due to time constraints and being busy at work, I’ve now employed a bid to do the complete install for me!! If you’re busy it’s quicker and sometimes cheaper to do this... Especially if you’ve got to give up paying work to do it yourself... Solder and shrink wrap is prob easiest, make the join as close to the MFD as you can. Or leave someone else have to hide the cables and do the crawling in all places 😁😁😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 Let’s just hopefully he doesn’t go route direct with the cable straight through the roof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 Does he do carpentry? Andy135 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 4 minutes ago, suzook12 said: Does he do carpentry? No suzook12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPSguru Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 12 hours ago, Saintly Fish said: No not that I can see. I have an electronics engineer coming this morning to take a look around the install. He says Garmin does a “field kit” for cutting and re joining. Apparently it’s a common problem. IIRC, it is about £30, includes waterproofing Gel and a connector (which is probably an RJ45). Not all Garmin stuff costs the earth ! Saintly Fish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 Got this install completed today. No carpentry needed. And yes, I do still have to remove the front anchor light. Think I’ll put a remote search light there instead, the power cable has been left in place. Any recommendations on those will be great fully received. Also a new deck work light to put under the rear of the roof. Geoff and GPSguru 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 Looks good. 👍 Saintly Fish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 Which fixing is off Center? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 My recommendation for remote deck light is don’t bother, I have two that I don’t use because they just bounce the light back in your face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 I’ll be really interested in some pictures of your target returns, especially with it being a 4g model, I’d like to see how much detail you get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 9 minutes ago, JonC said: Which fixing is off Center? The old anchor light is 1.5” out of centre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 9 minutes ago, JonC said: My recommendation for remote deck light is don’t bother, I have two that I don’t use because they just bounce the light back in your face. Surely a concentrated high beam search light doesn’t do that? I’d really only use it for docking in the dark. Or spying on the neighbours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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