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Radar power supply.


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9 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

I’m going to be fitting my new radar system soon. For the power supply, do I need to run a separate designated live for it, or can I piggy back off the power supply that feeds my two MFD’s? 

They do draw a bit of power, if you have a spare space on your board it’s worth giving it a separate supply, possibly an illuminated switch to remind you it’s on. Your nice new solid state one won’t make the noise anything like an old version, as well as the power consumption there’s the safety aspect to it.They can cause brain damage. Oh hold on...

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Can only answer that as seperate fused live feed, no-one else knows what the wiring is on your boat so to suggest a piggy back could well be overloading existing wiring.

Even a solid state system can tip you over the edge in regards drawing too much current for the wire run length and and cross sectional area.......

Piggy backing, if one of your mfd's develops a fault, you will lose your mfd's and radar. If all supplied and fused seperately, you will lose that mfd and nothing else.......

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5 minutes ago, suzook12 said:

Can only answer that as seperate fused live feed, no-one else knows what the wiring is on your boat so to suggest a piggy back could well be overloading existing wiring.

Even a solid state system can tip you over the edge in regards drawing too much current for the wire run length and and cross sectional area.......

Piggy backing, if one of your mfd's develops a fault, you will lose your mfd's and radar. If all supplied and fused seperately, you will lose that mfd and nothing else.......

Ok , thanks Steve. Separate it is then! 

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7 hours ago, Saintly Fish said:

I’m going to be fitting my new radar system soon. For the power supply, do I need to run a separate designated live for it, or can I piggy back off the power supply that feeds my two MFD’s? 

Yes, it needs a dedicated fuse supply from the fuse box.

piggy backing is extremely bad practise, especially from a single point of failure viewpoint.

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  • 1 month later...

Another cable question. 
the location I want to site my radome is on the rear of my cabin roof. There is a cable void but is only about 20mm deep if that. The connector to the radome on the data cable has a 35mm screw fit. So this won’t feed through the route I have available. 
can the data cable be cut then re joined together? 

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32 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

Another cable question. 
the location I want to site my radome is on the rear of my cabin roof. There is a cable void but is only about 20mm deep if that. The connector to the radome on the data cable has a 35mm screw fit. So this won’t feed through the route I have available. 
can the data cable be cut then re joined together? 

I suspect it probably can (anything's possible right?), but it could be a potential point of failure or corrosion in future. Definitely no other way of routing the cable?

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14 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

I suspect it probably can (anything's possible right?), but it could be a potential point of failure or corrosion in future. Definitely no other way of routing the cable?

No not that I can see. I have an electronics engineer coming this morning to take a look around the install. He says Garmin does a “field kit” for cutting and re joining. Apparently it’s a common problem.  

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2 hours ago, Andy135 said:

I suspect it probably can (anything's possible right?), but it could be a potential point of failure or corrosion in future. Definitely no other way of routing the cable?

If the cable is joined inside the shed then it won’t be overly exposed. When I joined my cable on an old unit I Soldered the wires and used a lego block strip to hold them in place. 
I dare say what garmin will supply will cost you a couple of hundred and do the same thing. 

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As has been said Neil, cut the indoor end and feed it backwards, keeps that end weathertight. Solder and heatshrink and shouldn't go far wrong, or research the plug type and fit new plug.... RS Components may be able to help as long as they're not dedicated plugs/sockets

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20 minutes ago, suzook12 said:

As has been said Neil, cut the indoor end and feed it backwards, keeps that end weathertight. Solder and heatshrink and shouldn't go far wrong, or research the plug type and fit new plug.... RS Components may be able to help as long as they're not dedicated plugs/sockets

Thanks Steve. Due to time constraints and being busy at work, I’ve now employed a bid to do the complete install for me!! 

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27 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

Thanks Steve. Due to time constraints and being busy at work, I’ve now employed a bid to do the complete install for me!! 

If you’re busy it’s quicker and sometimes cheaper to do this...

Especially if you’ve got to give up paying work to do it yourself...

Solder and shrink wrap is prob easiest, make the join as close to the MFD as you can. Or leave someone else have to hide the cables and do the crawling in all places 😁😁😁

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12 hours ago, Saintly Fish said:

No not that I can see. I have an electronics engineer coming this morning to take a look around the install. He says Garmin does a “field kit” for cutting and re joining. Apparently it’s a common problem.  

IIRC, it is about £30, includes waterproofing Gel and a connector (which is probably an RJ45).

Not all Garmin stuff costs the earth !

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Got this install completed today. 
No carpentry needed. 
 

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And yes, I do still have to remove the front anchor light. Think I’ll put a remote search light there instead, the power cable has been left in place. 
Any recommendations on those will be great fully received. Also a new deck work light to put under the rear of the roof. 

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My recommendation for remote deck light is don’t bother, I have two that I don’t use because they just bounce the light back in your face. 

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I’ll be really interested in some pictures of your target returns, especially with it being a 4g model, I’d like to see how much detail you get. 

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9 minutes ago, JonC said:

My recommendation for remote deck light is don’t bother, I have two that I don’t use because they just bounce the light back in your face. 

Surely a concentrated high beam search light doesn’t do that? I’d really only use it for docking in the dark. Or spying on the neighbours. 

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