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Removing Sikaflex?


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I’ve bought a bow roller to replace the crappy one that I fitted a couple of years ago. When I fitted it I put a bed of sink beneath it, obviously not anticipating having to remove it so soon. 
What’s the best trick to help ease the old one off without taking the gel coat off? 
Would a bit of heat on it help ? 
Any ideas please. 

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@JonC do you have a multi tool? Something like a Fein? 
They have a blade designed for taking up glued down floor tiles. That would do the trick once the roller bolts are out and you could prize a mm or tu to get the blade under. Then just go round a bit at a time giving east pressure with a flat blade driver. 

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32 minutes ago, JonC said:

Thanks @Saintly Fish, I do have a multi tool, I will have a look to see if I can find a longer blade. The bottom of the roller sits in a channel in the mould so I only limited access 

Don't use a cutting blade though. If you do, blunt it off first otherwise if you get the angle a bit wrong you'll cut into the Grp. 

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I removed seat pillars on my old Warrior 195.  They had a circular base around 250mm across.  I used blades to get started then prized chisels and flat screw drivers under as best I could.  Yanked it and promptly remover the gel coat along with the seats.  Didn't really matter as seats were going back in the same place.  If I were to do it again I would start exactly as I did previously but then move onto to longer blades.  If none were available, you could always sharpen a hacksaw blade (they make brilliant knifes) They do hacksaw blade holders which would make life easier

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26 minutes ago, Maverick said:

I removed seat pillars on my old Warrior 195.  They had a circular base around 250mm across.  I used blades to get started then prized chisels and flat screw drivers under as best I could.  Yanked it and promptly remover the gel coat along with the seats.  Didn't really matter as seats were going back in the same place.  If I were to do it again I would start exactly as I did previously but then move onto to longer blades.  If none were available, you could always sharpen a hacksaw blade (they make brilliant knifes) They do hacksaw blade holders which would make life easier

Oh hello!! 
Did you manage to get out today in the window?? 

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Cheese cutter wire to cut through the silicon and then a sharp chisel to remove the residue from the FG. You need to keep the chisel as flat as possible to the FG surface to avoid digging in the gelcoat. If you use the chisel with the angled edge down you will not damage the gel, but will probably ned to end up with the flat edge down (keep the chisel low) to finish off.Once you have finished with the cheese cutter start in the middle for practice with the chisel so that if you do dig into the gel it will be covered.  Good luck. Geoff.

Edited by Geoff
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23 minutes ago, Geoff said:

Cheese cutter wire to cut through the silicon and then a sharp chisel to remove the residue from the FG. You need to keep the chisel as flat as possible to the FG surface to avoid digging in the gelcoat. If you use the chisel with the angled edge down you will not damage the gel, but will probably ned to end up with the flat edge down (keep the chisel low) to finish off.Once you have finished with the cheese cutter start in the middle for practice with the chisel so that if you do dig into the gel it will be covered.  Good luck. Geoff.

Thanks Geoff, that’s a good solution 

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I use a razor blade to slice most of it away and then a product from the DIY store specially for removing old silicon away from walls and shower screens when we do any bathroom renovations. Ive also removed bulky stuff away using a plastic ice scraper, not sure if you have them for car windscreens.

 

 

Edited by JDP
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10 hours ago, JDP said:

I use a razor blade to slice most of it away and then a product from the DIY store specially for removing old silicon away from walls and shower screens when we do any bathroom renovations. Ive also removed bulky stuff away using a plastic ice scraper, not sure if you have them for car windscreens.

 

 

Thanks, my issue isn’t so much removing the residue as much as initially getting the plate off without the gel coat coming away. If you look at the picture of my bow you will see that it’s only possible to attack from the ends. 

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I think Geoff's idea is by far the most likely to succeed.  Either get a garot wire or if you know a welder ask him for a length of stainless mig welding wire you could then use it after for making lead weight eyes

Edited by Maverick
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2 minutes ago, JDP said:

How about the brown single strand Mason fishing wire, this stuff is very thin and could be used wrapped around a couple of wooden handles and perhaps pulled between the fittings. 

Some sort of wire definitely seems the way to go . Thanks 

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