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Prop anode


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21 minutes ago, andydavy said:

Excellent thanks very much. I’ve had a look and they look just the job!! 
cheers Andy👍🏻

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6 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

I did try today but I can shift the nut. Think I’ll just leave it on and clean the prop in place.

Makes sense if it’s not damaged. I had to

put a big set of steelsons on mine with a piece of wood jammed in it to stop the prop rotating. I can’t remember if it’s a left handed Fred? 

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22 minutes ago, JonC said:

Makes sense if it’s not damaged. I had to

put a big set of steelsons on mine with a piece of wood jammed in it to stop the prop rotating. I can’t remember if it’s a left handed Fred? 

Yes I did wonder if it’s a reverse thread . Removing it would be easier for cleaning but it’s not damaged so, why risk damage.

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Just now, Andy135 said:

I always thought he was right handed?

Another attempt to drag this one off topic. Well done. I hope you are happy. Fisty and I can’t have a decent conversation about pulling ourselves off without you trying to wreck it.

 

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10 minutes ago, JonC said:

Another attempt to drag this one off topic. Well done. I hope you are happy. Fisty and I can’t have a decent conversation about pulling ourselves off without you trying to wreck it.

 

You should think yourself lucky I played along instead of pulling you up about your mate "Fred". We've had words about him before...

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5 minutes ago, Andy135 said:

Just keeping Jon on the straight and narrow. Move along...

Just because you’ve been Billy big bollox shouting at the kids all week don’t get all brave again.

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I think you have a Radice propeller and they take Sole type anodes.  You will need to either measure accurately as I believe they go up in 5mm increments.  The best way would be to flatten the locking plate, jam the propeller with a lump of wood then remove the nut in the oppose direction to the props rotation.  The first time I renewed them on my boat I did the measuring thing and it took 3 attempts and still go through the same pain every year lol

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6 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

 

You will be able to tell by examining the exposed thread at the back of the nut ...... look at the point where the thread starts and does it go clock or anti-clock ?

I’m down there tomorrow, I’ll take a look.

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17 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

 

You will be able to tell by examining the exposed thread at the back of the nut ...... look at the point where the thread starts and does it go clock or anti-clock ?

He has an unusual nut in as much as it is solid at the end by the look of it.

edit . No they all seem to be like that, no visible thread. 

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10 minutes ago, JonC said:

He has an unusual nut in as much as it is solid at the end by the look of it.

edit . No they all seem to be like that, no visible thread. 

I thought the cone on the back of the nut was the prop anode which I assumed to be either a clamp or interference fit over the back of the nut 'land'

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5 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

I thought the cone on the back of the nut was the prop anode which I assumed to be either a clamp or interference fit over the back of the nut 'land'

The cone is part of the nut. It is what the anode sits over and then bolts to. 

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3 minutes ago, GPSguru said:

I thought the cone on the back of the nut was the prop anode which I assumed to be either a clamp or interference fit over the back of the nut 'land'

No the anode is long gone. The hole at the back is where the securing screw  goes though into the shaft and the anode locates over the nut. 
when I last changed mine in early summer my screw was loose with a polo sized anode left there. This is a good thing though as it shows it’s working 

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The cone is part of the nut that holds the prop on.  The anode fits over the cone and is held in place with an allen key threaded screw (can't remember their proper name.  This screw should have a little lock tight on it to secure.

similar to this

 Accesories - Shaft Lines - Zinc Anode Nuts

Edited by Maverick
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