WiFishing Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Hi I have a Honda BF40 with an intermittent tilt/trim problem. When using the tilt it sometimes stops. Never the same place. Leave around 30 seconds and try it again and it will work ok. Affects both up and down. Seems to be behaving like there is a current limit switch or something similar in the circuit. With the tilt motor disconnected full battery voltage is seen at the connector when tilt switch operated. Problem happens both on control unit and tilt switch on side of engine. Any help with this much appreciated. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 1 minute ago, WiFishing said: Hi I have a Honda BF40 with an intermittent tilt/trim problem. When using the tilt it sometimes stops. Never the same place. Leave around 30 seconds and try it again and it will work ok. Affects both up and down. Seems to be behaving like there is a current limit switch or something similar in the circuit. With the tilt motor disconnected full battery voltage is seen at the connector when tilt switch operated. Problem happens both on control unit and tilt switch on side of engine. Any help with this much appreciated. Cheers Have you checked all the connections to the actual ram motor. Might be an intermittent connection if it stops in different places. That’s just a guess though, I’m sure you’ve checked connections! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MegaByte Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Have you checked the fluid level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 I’d check - fluid levels - seals on ram - WD40 on switch - careful inspection of harness for breaks etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 The fact that it stops on both switches suggests it's not a faulty switch. My guess would be a break or weak point in the wiring from the switches to the tilt motor. Presume you've checked the connections for corrosion? Assuming they're all good, then check the wiring itself for kinks or breaks. Assuming that's ok, then it could be the tilt motor itself. When it stops do you keep trying the switch but nothing happens or do you rest it for 30 seconds before trying again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiFishing Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 Thanks guys, done all the checks, connections look good, fluids fine, cables no signs of damage. Looks like I am going for new motor. Should get it by weekend. Hoping I can get it changed without having to take engine off. Cheers Andy135 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Keep us posted on your progress @WiFishing 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, Andy135 said: Keep us posted on your progress @WiFishing 👍 With photos and a tutorial. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 How did this go in the end @WiFishing? Did you get it changed ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiFishing Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 Hi It's been a while but finally got round to changing the motor on Honda BF40 tilt unit. Things didn't quite go to plan though. It was not possible to get the engine off the boat or even get it on a slip so the whole operation had to be done between tides. The original plan was to take the bolts out of the port side of the transom clamp. Wind back the port side nut on the tilt tube and slide the port side of the bracket along, enough to spread the transom brackets far enough to get the bottom pin out of the tilt unit. First problem was the tilt tube was extremely rusted. After a good bit of wire brushing and liberal application of WD40 the nut was eventually wound out to the end of the thread. The port bolts holding bracket to the outboard pod were removed. Forgot to say the boat is a Cheetah Cat with outboard pods fitted. The bottom bolt through the tilt unit was taken out and the transom bracket anode which is bolted across the bottom between both sides taken off. The pin holding the top of the tilt ram removed and the ram closed. Then it started to go wrong. The port side of the bracket could not be moved. We could not even get a screwdriver hammered in between the transom bracket and the outboard bracket on the tilt tube. Absolutely solid. No idea why this is a steel tube instead of stainless. Next attack was to put a large G-cramp on the transom bracket to the side of the outboard pod. The bracket was put on as high up as we could get it just below the hole in the bracket where the wires pass through. There is a web of reinforcing there, any lower and the bracket looks to slender to put pressure on. The intention was to tighten the cramp into place, get tension on with it and try to split the transom bracket from the outboard bracket with screwdriver then. This didn't happen. During the gentle taps on the screwdriver, no small chisel available. The G-cramp jumped off and we noticed the bracket jumped back into place. Next attack was to put the G-cramp back on and slowly take up tension on it. At the same time, wiggling the bottom of the tilt unit. The cramp was increased in tiny increments and eventually it was wide enough to get the bottom of the unit out. There is a short tube inside the bottom that extends about 10mm into either side of the brackets which is why the brackets have to be spread to remove the unit. We carried on with the port side bracket but would have been better trying to move the starboard side bracket as the trim sensor is on the port side. Once out the whole unit was taken up to the shed and clamped upright in the vice. Four screws holding motor on taken out and motor pulled out and replaced. Slight encouragement was needed with screwdriver/chisel for the motor to lift once screws taken out. We did not drain the unit as we held it upright in vice but if not able to do like this the unit would need the oil drained out before taking motor off. O-ring greased, motor lined up and screwed down into place. Replacing unit relatively simple, connected up first to check if unit now working, which it was. So unit and lower tube through it with spacer slid into place and G-cramp very slowly eased making sure every thing was in line. Eventually remove clamp. Quick check and bracket mounting bolt holes still lined up after everything. So bottom bolt and top pin fitted and unit tried raised and lowered ok. Anode refitted, transom bolts refitted wiring tidied, tilt tube nuts tightened up and happy days. First time we tried the new motor it was quite noisy and slightly erratic. When we had it in place the oil fill cover was cracked and a small bit of oil and air let out. Next time tilt was tried it was quiet and fine. I have to say I do not recommend using this method. We were lucky the tilt tube only flexed and did not bend permanently. Our next move would probably have been to get engine off and build some kind of puller to either pull or press the tilt tube out after cutting it either side of the transom bracket and between the outboard bracket. Alternatively once cut put hacksaw blade through the inside and cut carefully to the brackets. Lesson learned, get somebody else to change tilt motor. Nah just kidding. Keeping the tilt tube oiled and greased. There are grease nipples on the outboard half of the bracket but not where the steel tube goes through the aluminum alloy transom bracket. Pictures are the Bottom bolt holding the bottom of the Tilt unit through the transom brackets. Top pin held with circlips holding the top of the ram to the outboard bracket. The G-Cramp doing it's stuff. The anode from below bolted across the transom bolts. Sorry not better and more pics but when things started to go pear shaped kinda got forgotten. Andy135 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiFishing Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 18 minutes ago, Andy135 said: How did this go in the end @WiFishing? Did you get it changed ok? Are you spying on me was typing up as you sent message? 🙂 Andy135 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiFishing Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 Ooops didn't realise pics would be so big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 Just now, WiFishing said: Are you spying on me was typing up as you sent message? 🙂 Lol. I noticed you were online so thought I'd ask if you got it fixed. Now I'm just about to read all about it 😉👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 Wow! Just read your post from start to finish. Sounds like you did well to get it solved in the end - looks like it fought you every step of the way. And doing it all between the tides too. Good work and thanks for sharing! 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 33 minutes ago, WiFishing said: Hi It's been a while but finally got round to changing the motor on Honda BF40 tilt unit. Things didn't quite go to plan though. It was not possible to get the engine off the boat or even get it on a slip so the whole operation had to be done between tides. The original plan was to take the bolts out of the port side of the transom clamp. Wind back the port side nut on the tilt tube and slide the port side of the bracket along, enough to spread the transom brackets far enough to get the bottom pin out of the tilt unit. First problem was the tilt tube was extremely rusted. After a good bit of wire brushing and liberal application of WD40 the nut was eventually wound out to the end of the thread. The port bolts holding bracket to the outboard pod were removed. Forgot to say the boat is a Cheetah Cat with outboard pods fitted. The bottom bolt through the tilt unit was taken out and the transom bracket anode which is bolted across the bottom between both sides taken off. The pin holding the top of the tilt ram removed and the ram closed. Then it started to go wrong. The port side of the bracket could not be moved. We could not even get a screwdriver hammered in between the transom bracket and the outboard bracket on the tilt tube. Absolutely solid. No idea why this is a steel tube instead of stainless. Next attack was to put a large G-cramp on the transom bracket to the side of the outboard pod. The bracket was put on as high up as we could get it just below the hole in the bracket where the wires pass through. There is a web of reinforcing there, any lower and the bracket looks to slender to put pressure on. The intention was to tighten the cramp into place, get tension on with it and try to split the transom bracket from the outboard bracket with screwdriver then. This didn't happen. During the gentle taps on the screwdriver, no small chisel available. The G-cramp jumped off and we noticed the bracket jumped back into place. Next attack was to put the G-cramp back on and slowly take up tension on it. At the same time, wiggling the bottom of the tilt unit. The cramp was increased in tiny increments and eventually it was wide enough to get the bottom of the unit out. There is a short tube inside the bottom that extends about 10mm into either side of the brackets which is why the brackets have to be spread to remove the unit. We carried on with the port side bracket but would have been better trying to move the starboard side bracket as the trim sensor is on the port side. Once out the whole unit was taken up to the shed and clamped upright in the vice. Four screws holding motor on taken out and motor pulled out and replaced. Slight encouragement was needed with screwdriver/chisel for the motor to lift once screws taken out. We did not drain the unit as we held it upright in vice but if not able to do like this the unit would need the oil drained out before taking motor off. O-ring greased, motor lined up and screwed down into place. Replacing unit relatively simple, connected up first to check if unit now working, which it was. So unit and lower tube through it with spacer slid into place and G-cramp very slowly eased making sure every thing was in line. Eventually remove clamp. Quick check and bracket mounting bolt holes still lined up after everything. So bottom bolt and top pin fitted and unit tried raised and lowered ok. Anode refitted, transom bolts refitted wiring tidied, tilt tube nuts tightened up and happy days. First time we tried the new motor it was quite noisy and slightly erratic. When we had it in place the oil fill cover was cracked and a small bit of oil and air let out. Next time tilt was tried it was quiet and fine. I have to say I do not recommend using this method. We were lucky the tilt tube only flexed and did not bend permanently. Our next move would probably have been to get engine off and build some kind of puller to either pull or press the tilt tube out after cutting it either side of the transom bracket and between the outboard bracket. Alternatively once cut put hacksaw blade through the inside and cut carefully to the brackets. Lesson learned, get somebody else to change tilt motor. Nah just kidding. Keeping the tilt tube oiled and greased. There are grease nipples on the outboard half of the bracket but not where the steel tube goes through the aluminum alloy transom bracket. Pictures are the Bottom bolt holding the bottom of the Tilt unit through the transom brackets. Top pin held with circlips holding the top of the ram to the outboard bracket. The G-Cramp doing it's stuff. The anode from below bolted across the transom bolts. Sorry not better and more pics but when things started to go pear shaped kinda got forgotten. Well done. 10/10 for perseverance, that does sound like a labour of love. Very interesting, thanks for posting. Geoff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 Well done that man for effort and ingenuity. Glad you got it all fixed ok. A cheeta cat you say? With twin 40’s you say? @WiFishing I don’t recall seeing your boat porn in the “show us yer boat” section?? Time to sort that out! Andy135 and Maverick 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 Well done on getting it done, every job on boats seem to be so much harder than it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 @suzook12 Note this guy didn’t use a sawn off sledge hammer to get the job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzook12 Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 9 minutes ago, JonC said: @suzook12 Note this guy didn’t use a sawn off sledge hammer to get the job done. Thats why it went pearshaped!!! 🤣🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiFishing Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 3 hours ago, Saintly Fish said: Well done that man for effort and ingenuity. Glad you got it all fixed ok. A cheeta cat you say? With twin 40’s you say? @WiFishing I don’t recall seeing your boat porn in the “show us yer boat” section?? Time to sort that out! Have to admit it is not my boat just doing it for a friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saintly Fish Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, WiFishing said: Have to admit it is not my boat just doing it for a friend. Ahh ok then. No wonder you were prepared to take the risk with the back street repair then🤣 Geoff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.