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Anti foul after a season


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34 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

Lets let the morons kid about @JonC, whilst we keep it real. From memory (which isnt great) my prop is bronze. Ive never coated it and this will be the first time ive cleaned it. The anode is roughly 11 months old, dont know why its in good shape, it will be changed though regardless. What would you coat a prop in anyway?? I know the angry SA welsh guy used to talk about white grease??

Yes prop is bronze, don’t coat that. There are a few products on the market each is one thousandth of a be micron thinner than the last. 
Rudder, the big flat bit that is controlled by the round thing where you sit. Is that stainless? 

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I think the rudder (or any other) anode needs to be in electrical contact with the part it is supposed to be protecting. I would guess that anode is siting on non conducting paint and is therefore not working. Geoff.

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2 minutes ago, Geoff said:

I think the rudder (or any other) anode needs to be in electrical contact with the part it is supposed to be protecting. I would guess that anode is siting on non conducting paint and is therefore not working. Geoff.

That is exactly what I was thinking. Could this be linked to the exhaust elbow/turbo thing I fixed back in the autumn?

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49 minutes ago, Saintly Fish said:

Don’t forget though @JonCand @Geoff that these anodes are only 10 months old. 

Still doesn’t look like they are doing much, I bet every other boat around you has shore power running, that effects the rate.

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8 minutes ago, JonC said:

Still doesn’t look like they are doing much, I bet every other boat around you has shore power running, that effects the rate.

I don’t get what you mean. I have shore power on 100% of the time when at the pontoon. 

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1 hour ago, Saintly Fish said:

I don’t get what you mean. I have shore power on 100% of the time when at the pontoon. 

As I understand it, that is normally the worst case for disolving the anodes - I bet they are isolated. Geoff.

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14 minutes ago, Geoff said:

As I understand it, that is normally the worst case for disolving the anodes - I bet they are isolated. Geoff.

I will remove the rudder anode as I’m replacing it and see if there is any paint underneath it. If yes I will scrape it back. 

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16 hours ago, Geoff said:

Out of interest, does grade 316SS suffer from corrosion and in need of galvanic/electrolytic  protection? Geoff.

If you assume that the SS will be the anode, then It really depends on what the cathode material is, however, if the SS becomes the Cathode then it will cause a whole bunch of other materials to corrode as anodes ..........

As a generalization 316SS is more positive than most other metals used in boats, so it will be the last to corrode, but may be the cause of corrosion elsewhere. That is why bonding and sacrificial anodes are so important

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1 hour ago, GPSguru said:

If you assume that the SS will be the anode, then It really depends on what the cathode material is, however, if the SS becomes the Cathode then it will cause a whole bunch of other materials to corrode as anodes ..........

As a generalization 316SS is more positive than most other metals used in boats, so it will be the last to corrode, but may be the cause of corrosion elsewhere. That is why bonding and sacrificial anodes are so important

Thanks for that explanation GPS. Geoff.☺️.

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